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Smocking Newsletter Vol 7 No. 1
Welcome to Garden Fairies' Smocking Newsletter published since 1997, my name is Beth-Katherine Kaiman. Please address all comments and questions to smockingstore@att.net. Please respect my creativity and request permission before you use something I've written.
Garden Fairies Trading Company - PO Box 2596 - Clearlake, CA 95422 - 707-995-9337 web site: http://www.smockingstore.com
E-mail: smockingstore@att.net
Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright@1997-2007, all rights reserved.
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We now are posting our newsletter on the web with pictures of the products we recommend. Here is the link to past issues: http://www.smockingstore.com/smocknew.html
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What's New at the Garden Fairies? -- go to this page:
http://www.smockingstore.com/whatsnew.html
We have some great new books, patterns plates & notions
We are now carrying three new smocking plate designers: June Bug Designs, Wonderfully Made and Enchanted Child.
To see them go to http://www.smockingstore.com/whatsnew4.html
ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸, ?'s From our Readers:,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø
<<Hello, This may be a strange story and request but I am at a loss as to who to ask. I found your website by searching "Antique Chinese lace." When I was about 12 (1983) I was given a very old pair of lace gloves from a lovely older woman (about 75 at that time). She told me that they were hand made from "pre-communist china" and that she had gotten them from a relative who had gone overseas when she was much younger. I am wondering what these are made of; what they are possibly worth; is there a market for these and if I choose to keep them what is the best method of display in order to keep them in good quality. They are very delicate and small and nice. Any information or ideas you could give would be great. I would be happy to send a picture if this would help. Thanks so much for any assistance. Heidi Monroe >>
<<Hello,
This may be a strange story and request but I am at a loss as to who to ask. I found your website by searching "Antique Chinese lace."
When I was about 12 (1983) I was given a very old pair of lace gloves from a lovely older woman (about 75 at that time). She told me that they were hand made from "pre-communist china" and that she had gotten them from a relative who had gone overseas when she was much younger. I am wondering what these are made of; what they are possibly worth; is there a market for these and if I choose to keep them what is the best method of display in order to keep them in good quality. They are very delicate and small and nice.
Any information or ideas you could give would be great. I would be happy to send a picture if this would help. Thanks so much for any assistance. Heidi Monroe >>
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Odds are the thread is cotton and can be hand washed in Ivory liquid, baby shampoo or the product we sell for washing heirlooms called Nana's Soap*1. While washing them don't wring them dry or agitate too much, best to let them soak in the solution and push them up and down in it until you feel they have come clean enough you can also gently squeeze them to wash them, rinse and wash again. (Any rough handling will more than likely damage the delicate threads so be careful as it may not be easy to duplicate the thread for repairs.) I have found while washing vintage lace that soaking it in clear warm water for several minutes does a lot in getting rid of dust and "dirt"*1 that has accumulated over the years will rinse right out. I find that with a bit of gentle plunging the dirt will float away and it is after the water comes clear that I add in my soaping agent*2 and wash again. Usually most all the dirt is gone already but some lingering stains may need soap to get them out. Using warm water helps loosen any oils that are present. Repeat the washing cycle 2-3 times or until the water comes clear in the rinse and the gloves look clean. You can gently squeeze water out but don't wring or get carried away. Then gently roll them up in a big fluffy towel and squeeze all the moisture out. Place them on a sweater rack or a cookie rack, shape lightly .. then let them air dry. Before placing in their display box you can steam them into shape*3 by blocking them on the towel or ironing board but remember don't use spray starch to retain their shape as BUGS LOVE STARCH. If you find that you still have stains and the water runs consistently clear you might have to soak them in Sodium Perborate overnight and repeat the washing process above.
Odds are the thread is cotton and can be hand washed in Ivory liquid, baby shampoo or the product we sell for washing heirlooms called Nana's Soap*1. While washing them don't wring them dry or agitate too much, best to let them soak in the solution and push them up and down in it until you feel they have come clean enough you can also gently squeeze them to wash them, rinse and wash again. (Any rough handling will more than likely damage the delicate threads so be careful as it may not be easy to duplicate the thread for repairs.)
I have found while washing vintage lace that soaking it in clear warm water for several minutes does a lot in getting rid of dust and "dirt"*1 that has accumulated over the years will rinse right out. I find that with a bit of gentle plunging the dirt will float away and it is after the water comes clear that I add in my soaping agent*2 and wash again. Usually most all the dirt is gone already but some lingering stains may need soap to get them out. Using warm water helps loosen any oils that are present.
Repeat the washing cycle 2-3 times or until the water comes clear in the rinse and the gloves look clean. You can gently squeeze water out but don't wring or get carried away. Then gently roll them up in a big fluffy towel and squeeze all the moisture out. Place them on a sweater rack or a cookie rack, shape lightly .. then let them air dry. Before placing in their display box you can steam them into shape*3 by blocking them on the towel or ironing board but remember don't use spray starch to retain their shape as BUGS LOVE STARCH.
If you find that you still have stains and the water runs consistently clear you might have to soak them in Sodium Perborate overnight and repeat the washing process above.
If you plan to store your heirloom garments after washing rather than putting them into a display box you consider using Acid Free products (tissue paper, boxes) rather than plastic bags as natural fibers naturally expand and contract with changing temperatures and if they are kept in plastic they can't breathe. Over the years as a shop owner I have found that when exposed to light and air plastic bags deteriorate rapidly and the items inside end up smelling like plastic. Another good tip is to keep your fabrics and garments away from light as ultraviolet light deteriorates fabric over time.
For more tips on the care of vintage garments go to:
http://www.vintagevixen.com/care/dailyCare.asp
For our new Conservation Products page go to:
http://www.smockingstore.com/conser.html
*1 "Dirt
Which can include any number of the following items: dust mites, spider's webs, soot, pollen, dead bugs ... anything that floats in the air will land onto your stuff.
*2 Washing Agents or Cleaning Liquids
Ivory Liquid, Baby Shampoo, Nana's Vintage Soap, Antique Quilt Wash .. anything that has been formulated for delicate cottons. Never, never use Woolite on cotton or linen. It's designed for animal fibers not plant fibers.
*3 Blocking
Any steam iron will work as well as a damp pressing cloth and dry iron but hey if you like 'toys' I just saw advertised on TV that Singer offers a new Portable steamer which steam cleans your house but also works on wrinkles and would be great in steaming in pleats as well as re-shaping garments.
I remember reading in Katharine Hepburn's biography about how she liked to use lemon juice on stains and laid her vintage stuff out on the lawn in the sun to bleach and dry.
This is from issue 5 no 6 of the Smocking Newsletter:
<<I wanted to relay my experiences with sun bleaching. I use cloth diapers for my 5 month old baby. Sometimes his white diapers are so stained that an overnight soak in Oxyclean won't even remove the stains. Laying them to dry in the sun ALWAYS works and they come pure white again with no nasty chemicals to damage the diaper fibers. I'm sure it would work on any material and have begun using it for under chin stains on his shirts too. Janet>>
We are now carrying an excellent publication specifically written for the heirloom sewing world on how to wash heirloom garments. It's called "The Laundry Room" by Sandy Hunter. You can find it on our new Conservation Supplies Page The Laundry Room $16.95 A practical guide on how to clean, repair and store treasured antique linens, lace and quilts plus new items that you want to preserve for their beauty and sentiment for generations to come. Price $16.95 Quantity requested There are also a lot of websites for vintage clothing which have washing instructions for vintage clothing as well as dry cleaning tips. Since the majority of sewers reading this publication primarily work with cotton or natural blends the dry cleaning instructions can be skimmed over. Use the phrase "Washing Vintage Clothing" and see what you get. Oh and try not to get lost and forget cooking dinner.
We are now carrying an excellent publication specifically written for the heirloom sewing world on how to wash heirloom garments. It's called "The Laundry Room" by Sandy Hunter. You can find it on our new Conservation Supplies Page
A practical guide on how to clean, repair and store treasured antique linens, lace and quilts plus new items that you want to preserve for their beauty and sentiment for generations to come.
There are also a lot of websites for vintage clothing which have washing instructions for vintage clothing as well as dry cleaning tips. Since the majority of sewers reading this publication primarily work with cotton or natural blends the dry cleaning instructions can be skimmed over. Use the phrase "Washing Vintage Clothing" and see what you get. Oh and try not to get lost and forget cooking dinner.
This from Judith Petty
Saw it on a tv craft show and tried it and voila it worked
Easter Dress Anit-Stain Mud Recipe
1/4 cup cascade
1/4 cup clorox 2 dry bleach
3 galloons of water
Soaked stains of mud and coke and punch out of dupionni
Soaked it over night ... stains
Hand wash to get soak residue out
<<Do I smock my design and then pull to fit or do I pull to fit and then smock leaving flat edges on the sides while I smock?">>
This question falls under the subject of BLOCKING (if you have any manual look in the index under that word). Blocking is done before and after smocking, with the First blocking the most important as you are measuring the pleats agains the section of a pattern that it is being sewn (connected) to. If you are fitting an insert into a garment with a yoke, and/or skirt/bodice bottom, use the measurement of the bottom of the yoke as your guide for the first blocking of the smocked insert. This process is the same if you are adding a smocked skirt to a bodice yoke. How to block? Blocking is simply pinning the pleated piece (which has the left side already tied off and the right side untied) to the ironing board matching edges and width to the piece to which it is to be sewn, pull up your gathering threads, combing them if necessary to straighten and tie off. Steam in the pleats with a steam iron or place a damp pressing cloth over the pleats and lightly touch the iron to the pressing cloth releasing the moisture into the pleats. Let dry. Remove from board and SMOCK. After smocking you will find that your smocking has pulled in a bit, simply reposition it onto the ironing board matching the yoke, pin and steam in place. The smocked piece will retain the shape it has been steamed into ... if not, steam again and let dry pinned to the board until it is thoroughly dry.
This question falls under the subject of BLOCKING (if you have any manual look in the index under that word).
Blocking is done before and after smocking, with the First blocking the most important as you are measuring the pleats agains the section of a pattern that it is being sewn (connected) to.
If you are fitting an insert into a garment with a yoke, and/or skirt/bodice bottom, use the measurement of the bottom of the yoke as your guide for the first blocking of the smocked insert. This process is the same if you are adding a smocked skirt to a bodice yoke.
How to block? Blocking is simply pinning the pleated piece (which has the left side already tied off and the right side untied) to the ironing board matching edges and width to the piece to which it is to be sewn, pull up your gathering threads, combing them if necessary to straighten and tie off.
Steam in the pleats with a steam iron or place a damp pressing cloth over the pleats and lightly touch the iron to the pressing cloth releasing the moisture into the pleats. Let dry. Remove from board and SMOCK.
After smocking you will find that your smocking has pulled in a bit, simply reposition it onto the ironing board matching the yoke, pin and steam in place. The smocked piece will retain the shape it has been steamed into ... if not, steam again and let dry pinned to the board until it is thoroughly dry.
<< In one of the smocking books I have seen, it says to place a pleated bishop 'face down' on the blocking guide. This seems wrong. Shouldn't it be face up so the pleats will be steamed in? Also, some of the ladies on one of the mailing lists said they leave their piece on the blocking guide and smock that way. They couldn't do it if it was face down. Do I not understand this right? >> I never put my bishops face down, which book was this? I can understand the logic of blocking face down when you have the smocking completed, but for the first blocking step I would block topside up to set in the pleats. Leaving a bishop on a smocking guide is an old technique that comes from the French Handsewing school of making puffing strips where you HAVE to leave it attached to the paper otherwise you'll loose the shape of your strip. With the bishop once the pleats have been steamed in it is NOT necessary as the neckline holds it's shape (it's tied off after all). Steaming AFTER smocking and adjusting the pleats if necessary helps shape the neckline further until you get the neckline bias attached. This is especially important for any bumps you might have in the shoulder french seams that occured while smocking. I have also found that steaming after attaching the bias when the dress is complete and after the first few washings REALLY helps keep the neckline to lay flat. If your fabric is polyester it is very important to steam several times as Polyester has memory, which means it doesn't like to be disturbed but can be forced into compliance. (Ok so that last sentence is a bit of a joke but once you've wrestled with a Poly/Cotton fabric you'll understand what I mean). For further information with step by step photographs the new book from Country Bumpkin, "A to Z of Sewing for Smockers" shows every step of the process of making any style of smocked clothing is covered in wonderful step-by-step photographs that AS&E and the A to Z series are famous for. A to Z Sewing for Smockers - $28.00 From the pages of Australian Smocking & Embroidery magazine comes this 7th book in the A to Z series and wonderful it is. Every question a sewer of smocking clothing could ask is answered in this book with step by step photographs and excellent instructions. A necessary companion to A to Z Smocking. Over 580 superb step-by-step color photographs, hins and tips from the experts, fabulous finishing touches for sleeves, collars & hems. A must have for your sewing library. Price $33.00 Quantity requested If you are having trouble sewing garments together, especially the basic square yoke dress, or don't do it often enough to remember I whole heartedly recommend the book "The Busy Mother's Guide to Sewing Smocked Clothing" by Nancy Coburn of Ginger Snaps Designs
I never put my bishops face down, which book was this? I can understand the logic of blocking face down when you have the smocking completed, but for the first blocking step I would block topside up to set in the pleats.
Leaving a bishop on a smocking guide is an old technique that comes from the French Handsewing school of making puffing strips where you HAVE to leave it attached to the paper otherwise you'll loose the shape of your strip. With the bishop once the pleats have been steamed in it is NOT necessary as the neckline holds it's shape (it's tied off after all). Steaming AFTER smocking and adjusting the pleats if necessary helps shape the neckline further until you get the neckline bias attached. This is especially important for any bumps you might have in the shoulder french seams that occured while smocking.
I have also found that steaming after attaching the bias when the dress is complete and after the first few washings REALLY helps keep the neckline to lay flat. If your fabric is polyester it is very important to steam several times as Polyester has memory, which means it doesn't like to be disturbed but can be forced into compliance. (Ok so that last sentence is a bit of a joke but once you've wrestled with a Poly/Cotton fabric you'll understand what I mean).
For further information with step by step photographs the new book from Country Bumpkin, "A to Z of Sewing for Smockers" shows every step of the process of making any style of smocked clothing is covered in wonderful step-by-step photographs that AS&E and the A to Z series are famous for.
From the pages of Australian Smocking & Embroidery magazine comes this 7th book in the A to Z series and wonderful it is. Every question a sewer of smocking clothing could ask is answered in this book with step by step photographs and excellent instructions. A necessary companion to A to Z Smocking. Over 580 superb step-by-step color photographs, hins and tips from the experts, fabulous finishing touches for sleeves, collars & hems. A must have for your sewing library.
If you are having trouble sewing garments together, especially the basic square yoke dress, or don't do it often enough to remember I whole heartedly recommend the book "The Busy Mother's Guide to Sewing Smocked Clothing" by Nancy Coburn of Ginger Snaps Designs
This book has been around since 1985 but is still the best. It is perfect for beginners as everything you need to know about sewing garments (smocked and heirloom sewn) is here. Includes more than 25 basic yoke variations, 18 collar variations and 19 sleeve variations. Also has instructions for the construction of the basic yoke dress and the smocked Bishop dress. Includes methods to prevent a "turtle-neck" and 3 easy bishop plackets. It has some of the best clearly written detailed instructions with 215 illustrations and 103 photographs. Using this book and the matching Basic Square Yoke Dress pattern you can make as many dresses as you like without fear of repeating yourself. A must have for every sewing smockers library. Price $20.00 Quantity requested
This book has been around since 1985 but is still the best. It is perfect for beginners as everything you need to know about sewing garments (smocked and heirloom sewn) is here. Includes more than 25 basic yoke variations, 18 collar variations and 19 sleeve variations. Also has instructions for the construction of the basic yoke dress and the smocked Bishop dress. Includes methods to prevent a "turtle-neck" and 3 easy bishop plackets. It has some of the best clearly written detailed instructions with 215 illustrations and 103 photographs. Using this book and the matching Basic Square Yoke Dress pattern you can make as many dresses as you like without fear of repeating yourself. A must have for every sewing smockers library.
Bishop, Yoke & Collar Guide is a versatile aid to use from the start to finishing of the smocked garment, but it Bishop or Yoke, Collar or Insert. Neckline sizings are from 18" doll, Preemie/Newborn up to Adult. Actual size is 14" x 14". Also included is a Scallop Guide for Hems and Collars for scallop sizes 1", 1 1/2", 2", 2 1/2", 3", 3 1/2" & 4". The fabric is a heavy weight and durable non-woven pressed fiber that is stretch-resistant. It can be pinned on or basted to. Put it in an embroidery hoop for smocking on the guide if desired. Instructions are included.
The fabric is a heavy weight and durable non-woven pressed fiber that is stretch-resistant. It can be pinned on or basted to. Put it in an embroidery hoop for smocking on the guide if desired. Instructions are included.
ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸, New Products ,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø
New Products mentioned in this newsletter: The Laundry Room by Sandy Jenkins $16.95 Nancy's Vintage Soap $9.50 + $6.50 shipping for one and $10.50 s/h for 2 or 3 (heavy) A to Z Sewing for Smockers $33.00 EM Smock and Block Guide $6.00 Patterns We Carry
New Products mentioned in this newsletter:
The Laundry Room by Sandy Jenkins $16.95
Nancy's Vintage Soap $9.50 + $6.50 shipping for one and $10.50 s/h for 2 or 3 (heavy)
A to Z Sewing for Smockers $33.00
EM Smock and Block Guide $6.00
Patterns We Carry
A little consideration, a little thought for others, makes all the difference. Or so they say. — Eeyore
For complete information on how to get started smocking please visit this page.
Special Edition - How to do a Bishop Dress
Special Edition - What is Smocking?
Special Edition - How to Get Started Smocking
Special Edition - Eleven Rules of Smocking
Special Edition - How to make the Perfect Bullion and Bullion Rose
Smocking Newsletter since 1996, frequently imitated. Glad to be of inspiration to all who read our issues. All we ask is that you give us credit when you quote from our newsletters, we do.
Go to Smocking Books for beginning Smocking books
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