Mail-in or Fax orders please go here.
April 3, 2003
e-Mail: mainfairy@smockingbooks.com
Website: Garden Fairies Smocking & Needlearts Catalog
Smocking Newsletter - Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright 1997-2004, all rights reserved. Please respect my creativity and hard work and ask permission before you copy something from these newsletters for your non profit goup, I always ask that you quote me correctly and give me credit with a way for people to get back to me. Thank you. IF you wish to quote me in a venture for profit please contact me separately concerning royalties.
From our Readers
Call for Topic of Discussion - Pleating
Pleating Tip and Pleating Woes
Differences between the 16 row and the 24 row pleater
Gift Ideas
Sale Items
<< I smock free hand but would like some input into buying a pleater and what do you mean by a "design plate". Is this done on a flat piece of fabric or do you set it on a pleated piece of fabric. >> The design plates are graphs of the smocking pattern shown on the front of the plate. This graph has been designed to be worked on the front of pre-pleated fabric. The pleats are formed either by hand (iron on dots) or run through a pleater which makes the tiny stand up pleats.
The design plates are graphs of the smocking pattern shown on the front of the plate. This graph has been designed to be worked on the front of pre-pleated fabric. The pleats are formed either by hand (iron on dots) or run through a pleater which makes the tiny stand up pleats.
<<Beth, I have not seen this topic covered before and I thought I would write to you about it. With few exceptions, all of the non-bishop dresses in the smocking magazines are smocked only in the front. I wanted a different look and have been smocking both the front and back of my dresses in such a way that I end up with a single seam down either the front or the back. I depend on the natural elasticity of the smocking for fit rather than sash ties. I have attached pictures of a dress I did for my niece Mijohnna which I adapted from the "Winter Garden" dress in Issue No. 59 2002 of Australian Smocking & Embroidery. She was in bed when the dress arrived and insisted on getting up and trying it on. With long distance (CT to NC) sewing, even with measurements taken, my sister always sends me pictures of Mijohnna in the new outfit over the internet and I can decide whether we need alterations. It is done in this way: * Double the yardage for the front of the dress and do not cut a separate back. * Pleat and smock the entire top the way you would a bishop but without the attached sleeves. Leave an unsmocked seam allowance for closing. * Join the bodice front and back pattern at the underarm seams, leaving the opening either at the back or the front. The skirt will be cut as an extension of the smocking. When sewn there will be a seam at the shoulders and either the front or the back. There will be no underarm seams. * Trace the bodice pattern on the smocking. Closely stitch this tracing onto the smocking before cutting. Overcast or serge all cut smocking to prevent ravelling. * Sew shoulder seams. Sew front or back seam up to smocking. If you use snaps to close the bodice the smocking can be matched into an uninterrupted pattern. Add sleeves if wanted otherwise bind or face armholes. There are advantages and disadvantages to this technique. Advantages: * Biggest advantage is that the child does not outgrow the dress so fast especially if you use growth tucks on the skirt. The natural elasticity of the smocking expands with the child and the armholes can be recut larger if you absolutely must keep the child in the dress longer than a few years. * This makes a lovely look for the older girl since there are no babyish sashes. Before I put the sleeves on one dress I thought it would make a beautiful prom dress. * There is a total look to the outfit both coming and going. * The construction after smocking is much simpler. Only a back or front seam and shoulder seams. Disadvantages: * It will take twice as long to smock the dress since you have doubled the effort. If you are the type who feels a letdown at the end of a project then change this to an advantage since it will take you longer to complete the dress. * Pleating can be a horror since you are pleating twice the material. The horror goes up exponentially if you need to pleat more than 24 rows. (Why in heaven's name don't they make pleaters to do 40 - 50 full wave rows????? I would gladly pay the price!) * You may consider the smocking cut out at the armholes as wasted effort. However I have used these pieces to make hair ornaments. Horretta Wilkins>>
With few exceptions, all of the non-bishop dresses in the smocking magazines are smocked only in the front. I wanted a different look and have been smocking both the front and back of my dresses in such a way that I end up with a single seam down either the front or the back. I depend on the natural elasticity of the smocking for fit rather than sash ties. I have attached pictures of a dress I did for my niece Mijohnna which I adapted from the "Winter Garden" dress in Issue No. 59 2002 of Australian Smocking & Embroidery. She was in bed when the dress arrived and insisted on getting up and trying it on. With long distance (CT to NC) sewing, even with measurements taken, my sister always sends me pictures of Mijohnna in the new outfit over the internet and I can decide whether we need alterations.
* Double the yardage for the front of the dress and do not cut a separate back.
* Pleat and smock the entire top the way you would a bishop but without the attached sleeves. Leave an unsmocked seam allowance for closing.
* Join the bodice front and back pattern at the underarm seams, leaving the opening either at the back or the front. The skirt will be cut as an extension of the smocking. When sewn there will be a seam at the shoulders and either the front or the back. There will be no underarm seams.
* Trace the bodice pattern on the smocking. Closely stitch this tracing onto the smocking before cutting. Overcast or serge all cut smocking to prevent ravelling.
* Sew shoulder seams. Sew front or back seam up to smocking. If you use snaps to close the bodice the smocking can be matched into an uninterrupted pattern. Add sleeves if wanted otherwise bind or face armholes.
There are advantages and disadvantages to this technique.
* Biggest advantage is that the child does not outgrow the dress so fast especially if you use growth tucks on the skirt. The natural elasticity of the smocking expands with the child and the armholes can be recut larger if you absolutely must keep the child in the dress longer than a few years.
* This makes a lovely look for the older girl since there are no babyish sashes. Before I put the sleeves on one dress I thought it would make a beautiful prom dress.
* There is a total look to the outfit both coming and going.
* The construction after smocking is much simpler. Only a back or front seam and shoulder seams.
* It will take twice as long to smock the dress since you have doubled the effort. If you are the type who feels a letdown at the end of a project then change this to an advantage since it will take you longer to complete the dress.
* Pleating can be a horror since you are pleating twice the material. The horror goes up exponentially if you need to pleat more than 24 rows. (Why in heaven's name don't they make pleaters to do 40 - 50 full wave rows????? I would gladly pay the price!)
* You may consider the smocking cut out at the armholes as wasted effort. However I have used these pieces to make hair ornaments.
Horretta Wilkins>>
I am calling for your suggestions on how to pleat. I have recently been unidated with questions from people who seem to be having the same problem, that of having the side of your piece that goes into the pleater come out straight but always having the pleats come out askew on the end side. Bubbles aside, we're talking how DO YOU pleat and overcome the tendency of the pleater to pull the fabric off grain. If you would please send in how you pleat. Also what are your thoughts about the half space rows
If your fabric is having trouble going through the pleater it might be time to try either of the following. Try using wax paper first to make it easier for the needles to allow the fabric to slide through. Also is you have a strawberry emery use that to sharpen your pleater needles (either in or out of the pleater) every couple of passes of fabric through the pleater.
There are times when you just you had 2 pairs of arms (like the Hindu goddess Shakti). I just wish someone would invent a way to feed in fabric into the pleater so it goes in straight and stays straight. Sometimes this is difficult especially when working with fabric. I found an easier way to pleat with a 32 row pleater, you turn it around and watch the fabric going into the back rather than from the front. It certainly makes pushing the fabric off the needles a lot easier as you just lean over the pleater and either push the fabric off or else go underneath the needles and gently pull off. I have found this puts less stress on the needles as you are pushing instead of pulling. I have yet to try this on a 24 row pleater ... but when I do I'll let you know or you let me know if you pleat this way, ok?
I found an easier way to pleat with a 32 row pleater, you turn it around and watch the fabric going into the back rather than from the front. It certainly makes pushing the fabric off the needles a lot easier as you just lean over the pleater and either push the fabric off or else go underneath the needles and gently pull off. I have found this puts less stress on the needles as you are pushing instead of pulling. I have yet to try this on a 24 row pleater ... but when I do I'll let you know or you let me know if you pleat this way, ok?
The main difference, besides the amount of rows, is the spacing as the 24row pleater is 1/16th of an inch wider between the needles than the 16 row pleater. So if you were to sit the pleaters facing each other you would see the difference as row #16 on the 24 row pleater would be 1" further. In other words a 16 row piece pleated by a 16 row pleater would be 7" and the piece pleated by the 24 row pleater would be 8" in depth. This variance does show in picture smocking as most design plates were made with the 16row pleater in mind. To adapt a design for the 24 row pleater all you have to do is add in a strand of floss to compensate. I have found that the first 8 rows are basically the same but after that 1/16th of an inch shows up dramatically.
This variance does show in picture smocking as most design plates were made with the 16row pleater in mind. To adapt a design for the 24 row pleater all you have to do is add in a strand of floss to compensate. I have found that the first 8 rows are basically the same but after that 1/16th of an inch shows up dramatically.
Remember when it was considered polite to give your hostess a gift when invited to her house for a gathering? Here are a few alternative ides while you are searching around for presents to buy consider the following handmade gifts (which are usually more treasured than the store bought kind). A Tea Cosy is quick to make. With either a lattice, honeycomb, or counterchange with striped fabric or complete smocked panels or an insert or that silk ribbon embroidered piece you've never figured out what to do with. The half dome shape is quick to draw out as your pattern, just measure the width of the pot including the handle and spout and height of the tea pot with the lid on and add an 1" or two all around for ease. Consider sewing the front and back together with wrong sides matching and then bias bind the outer seam. You could even include a handle on top for easy in removing. If you are a fast crocheter or tatterer then make an edging to go between the piping and the cozy so the lace falls flat onto the fabric. A few simple loops and you have an elegant addition.
A Tea Cosy is quick to make. With either a lattice, honeycomb, or counterchange with striped fabric or complete smocked panels or an insert or that silk ribbon embroidered piece you've never figured out what to do with. The half dome shape is quick to draw out as your pattern, just measure the width of the pot including the handle and spout and height of the tea pot with the lid on and add an 1" or two all around for ease. Consider sewing the front and back together with wrong sides matching and then bias bind the outer seam. You could even include a handle on top for easy in removing.
If you are a fast crocheter or tatterer then make an edging to go between the piping and the cozy so the lace falls flat onto the fabric. A few simple loops and you have an elegant addition.
Sundresses have become an interest lately what with the hot weather just around the corner (if winter will ever let go it's grip) so I have rounded up all the sundress patterns available on one page for your convenience. Sundress Patterns We Carry.
This book has been around since 1985 but is still the best. It is perfect for beginners as everything you need to know about sewing garments (smocked and heirloom sewn) is here. Includes more than 25 basic yoke variations, 18 collar variations and 19 sleeve variations. Also has instructions for the construction of the basic yoke dress and the smocked Bishop dress. Includes methods to prevent a "turtle-neck" and 3 easy bishop plackets. It has some of the best clearly written detailed instructions with 215 illustrations and 103 photographs.
A must have for every sewing smockers library. Price $20.00 Quantity requested Nancy Coburn is the designer for Ginger Snaps Designs Smocking and Heirloom Sewing Patterns as well as a wonderful series of beginning heirloom sewing books. You can see all of her patterns and books on this page: Ginger Snaps Designs
Nancy Coburn is the designer for Ginger Snaps Designs Smocking and Heirloom Sewing Patterns as well as a wonderful series of beginning heirloom sewing books. You can see all of her patterns and books on this page:
"I'm so old they even cancelled my blood type" <--- Bob Hope upon his 100th birthday
Go to Smocking Books for beginning Smocking books
---->Finished shopping on this page but want to shop more? Click the submit button to add in the items you want to add in your order<----
To complete your order just click the SUBMIT button, or if you changed your mind click the RESET button.
ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸, ,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø