L-119 Infant's Dress Size 15-17" Baby Doll Year 1907

"This infant's dress, dated 1907 is intricately designed and suitable for most periods, especially after 1890.  A christening dress would be more lavishly decorated, and longer, in the earlier times.  Every day dresses would be simpler and shorter, often coming just to the foot.

"A shaped yoke supports the front of the dress, the fullness being tucked at each side for a short distance, between which gathers adjust it about the cruve.  Tucks are at each side of the closing in the back.  A band and lace frill finishes the neck, and lace edges the sleeves in either the short or long versions.

"The dress hem will be extended to the desired length. Full length for a 16" doll will measure 22", or 17" for Three-quarter length.  This would be suitable for a christening, or other fancy dress.  By the time the baby is older than four months it would wear short clothes, just to the foot.

"The dress could be trimmed with a ruffle of lace or flouncing, or it may be simply hemmed. Insertion could be used above the hem and continued to meet the yoke as shown above.  An inverted pleat under the arm helps keep the hemline straight if hemstitching is to be used.

"The softest and finest fabrics are used for these dresses such as French and Persian lawn, batiste, handkerchief linen and nainsook. Decoration could be hand embroidery, lace, or fancy stitches.

"The petticoat is of princess style in the front. The back has a short body with a full gathered skirt."

L-120 Infant's Dress Size 12-14" Baby Doll Year 1907

"Daintiness of design, needlework and material are the requisites for all clothing for baby, and this dress is no exception. The fullness of the lower dress is gathered to the yoke in back and at each side in the front. The front panel extends to the hem, and may be trimmed with bands of  lace and ribbon, embroidered,  or left plain.  For ease of laundry,  baby dresses are white, though this rule may be relaxed a little for dolls to allow pastel ribbons. Plan the decoration of the front panel very carefully as it is the focal point of the dress.

"For variation, a scalloped Bertha may be used. In this case, omit the lace trim on the front panel seam.

"To give extra fullness an inverted plait is placed under the arms. A short sleeve pattern is given, though it could be extended to a longer length if desired. The hem is finished with lace and the gathering threads covered with ribbon. The underarm seam of the sleeve coincides with the front armscye notch.

"The skirt may be hemmed, hemstitched, or finished with a ruffle of flouncing or self fabric. See the special note in the instructions for assembling the dress as illustrated on the front cover. The hem of the dress will be extended. For a 14"doll the finished Regulation length will be 19" and the 3/4 length will be 15". Babies older than four months would be in short clothes measuring 11".

"The petticoat has a simple one-piece top, seamed at the shoulders, with neck and armhole edges bound with lace. it closes in the back. The skirt is gathered and finished at the bottom with a hem, lace, or a ruffle.

"The dress and petticoat require the sheerest and finest of nainsook, batiste, Persian lawn or handkerchief linen; with hand embroidery, fancy stitches or Valenciennes lace."

L-121 Infant's Layette Size 8-10"; 15-17" Baby Doll Year 1900-1925

8-10" Doll or 15-17" Doll

"The layette here illustrated includes the garments essential for an infant's first clothes. Not only the dress, but the skirt, pinning blanket and nightgown may be made in short, three-quarter, or regulation length. (Short will come just to the foot, three-quarter will have a finished length of 13", and regulation 16").

"Handwork may be employed on the round yoked dress with embroidery, smocking, or lace insertion. Inverted pleats are allowed under the arms to provide a straight lower edge for hemstitching, etc. Or side seams may be gored if desired.

"The skirt is shown with a ruffle as well as a hem. It is attached to a body having pointed ends which tie in the front. Dress and skirt will be made of fine white lawn, nainsook, batiste, muslin or linen.

"The pinning blanket, or Barrie-Coat, may be attached to a plain band folded at the top, or to a body with tie ends. The pinning blanket will be made of the finest white flannel, and the band or body of muslin.

"The nightgown is of simple but charming design, with raglan sleeves gathered about the wrists with ribbon ties. The neck is gathered and bound with bias or fine lace. Cover the sleeve seams with seam beading or feather stitching.

"A tiny shirt pattern is also included so baby maybe kept warm and comfortable. Make the shirt of soft knit or fine muslin."

L122 - Infant's Dress Size 12-14" or 23-25" Baby Doll  Years 1900-1930

"Pattern shapes and sewing instructions for this infant's dress and nightgown adapted from a Butterick pattern dated 1919.  They are typical of those is use from the 1890's to 1930's.

"Hem length is the chief variable during this time: so use the regulation length (22") for early in the period or for a Christening dress, and the three-quarter length (17") for after 1915. A child of over four months would be in short clothes, or just to the foot. Either garment could be shortened to nearly knee length for a young child. The hem should be 2-2 1/2" wide.

"The square-yoked dress has a round neck finished with a bias band and lace frill. The sleeves may be long or short, and are gathered to a band trimmed with lace. The seam comes to the front of the underarm seam of the dress. The dress can have an inverted pleat under the arm, or be cut in the gored style. The finish for the hem may be chosen from many possibilities; plain, hemstitched, tucked, embroidred, feather-stitched, or trimmed with insertion, beading or a ruffle. Make the dress of any fine white material such as lawn, mainsook mull, batiste or linen.

"The nightgown or Vassar Slip has raglan sleeves, is gathered about the neck, and has a frill of lace at neck and wrist. For a boy use the pointed collar. The underam seam is gored. The hem may be finished plain or feather-stitched. If the pattern is made to open in the front, and short, it can be used for a sack. Flannel, challis, albatross, cashmere, viyella, or pongee are recommended.

"For all baby clothes only the finest fabric, lace and handwork are employed. They are usually sewn completely by hand."

L134 - Tiny Baby Layette Size 8-10" Antique Doll Years 1900-1930

"It has not been easy to find clothing patterns for tiny, all bisque baby dolls until now. We have here an entire layette which contains all of the items a baby of the years 1900 to 1930 needs.

"The CLOAK shown on the front cover is of simple construction, and has an attached hood. The edges are trimmed with soft lace, and it may be further decorated with embroidery. Only the very softest of fabrics are suitable. Use silk, crepe, or wool.

"The dainty GOWN is cleverly planned so it may be made from a handkerchief. If this item is not available, then any very soft and fine batiste may be used. The dress has a yoke that comes just below the armscye, and a novel pointed plastron collar cut from one corner of the handkerchief. The collar is attached to the neckline of the yoke by a lace binding. The skirt may be short, three-quarter or regulation length. All stitching must be done by hand, using a tiny needle, and fine thread.

"The PETTICOAT is of princess style, with back fullness. The hem is trimmed with a lace ruffle. It should be made of batiste.

"The CAP is made by attaching rows of lace to a lining (which may be of a pastel color) or it may be unlined. A frill of the lace could be used to frame the face.

"The KIMONO is a simple design with the front, back and sleeves cut all in one. It opens down the front, and the seam allowance and hems are held by feather-stitching. If it is cut short it may be used for a SACQUE. Made of a light-weight wool it is a coat or wrap. The same pattern may be used for a NIGHTGOWN if a placket is made at the neck, and the hem has a drawstring.

"The BARROW COAT is a simple band with a flannel skirt.

"No diaper pattern is given, but it should be made of flannel, or bird's-eye, in triangle or rectangle shape."

L141 - Lanvin Dress - Size 16-18" Antique Doll - Year 1916

"Master French designer Madam Lanvin featured this superb frock in her 1916 Paris collection. In keeping with the French philosophy of deceptively simple chic for children, the dress has quiet charm. The careful grouping of pleats and the novel trimming of the front and sleeve plackets combine to give it understated elegance. The hem, neck and cuffs are trimmed with ribbon. The success of the dress depends upon accurate pleating.

"Suitable for many open-mouth bisque, or early composition dolls, this classic design would even be fashionable for dolls of the 1920's and 1930's if the hem were shortened.

"Make the dress of light weight soft or crisp fabrics that will pleat well such as China silk, pongee, handkerchief linen, organdy, lawn, batiste, or other plain or printed cotton in pastel colors.

"The underwear set consists of drawers, underwaist, and petticoat of cambric, batiste or other fine cotton. The underwaist fastens in the back, and has straps. A band is stitched around the waist to control the gathers. Buttons were sewn to the band and held up the drawers and petticoat. The drawers are plain and finished with lace. (Note: By 1913 this garment was also called "French Knicker-bockers", and by 1920 simply "Knickers".) The petticoat may be tucked, and has a lace trimmed, or eyelet flounce."

L144 - Shawl Collar Coat - Size 13-15"; Size 22-24" - Years 1921-1924

"Complete your dolly's wardrobe with a natty shawl collared coat decorated with smoking or shirring.  Or choose one of the four other versions of graceful and flattering ripple coats that are equally beautiful.

"Version B has fabric strips decorating the collar and cuffs; as well as loops to hold the buttons. Two fabric strips may be used to simulate slash pockets, or omit them if you prefer.

"Version C has collar, cuffs and hem bound with self-fabric or braid. Toggle buttons and loops make a simple closing.

"White fur trims Version D. Leopard fur trims Version E, which features a decorative front. Fur was popular during the early 1900's, even for very little children. Fur fabrics were also used.

"Note that the hems of all the coats are well above the knees in the 1920's.

"Make the smocked coat of silk, crepe de Chine, pongee, or other soft fabric that will smock well. The collar and cuffs could be of contrasting fabric to match the smocking, or of white.

"The other coats may be made of light weight wool, camel's hair, crepe, broadcloth, serge, cashmere, velveteen, crepe de Chine, taffeta, faille, or henrietta cloth. Make the lining of silk or taffeta."

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