English Smocking is embroidery on pleats that have been pleated before smocking.
It is an art form whose origin has been obscured in history but has been
handed down from generation to generation much like the sagas, songs and
myths; however it's roots are traceable to a point through looking at the
art of the past and in historical stitchery. If you look at paintings
from the Italian and German Renaissance you will see lots of examples of
a type of smocking on mens shirts and ladies chemises, as well as on linen
smocs (smocks) of the British Isles as far back as the 16th century. As
one source in England said "Smocking's been around for ages, long long time".
Smocking as we know it today is used primarily as a decorative way of
embellishing children's clothing.
To begin with smocking isn't hard but has a few rules that one must follow
in order to get a nice looking garment. First thing to consider is how you
are going to form your pleats to embroider onto. This is done either by picking
up iron-on dots with a needle and thread to form your pleats or to have your
fabric pre-pleated by a pleater.
There are two types of smocking dots available called Pleater Compatible
or Traditional Spacing which have evolved during the past 100 years of smocking's
history with the Traditional spacing dots being closer together than the
ones that are Pleater Compatible. Why the difference?
The main reason is that the majority of the patterns we sell have been designed
with the smocking pleater which has been manufacturered with a wider spacing
than those of the traditional smocking dots so the dot designers came up
with a way for people who like picking up dots to use the smocking patterns
- hence Pleater Compatible Smocking Dots. These dots are spaced slightly
wider than the Traditional Spacing.
We carry two styles of smocking dots (regular spacing
and pleater compatible) in two colors
Iron-On Smocking Dots
- $3.50 per package of two 24" x 36" sheets.
Two styles (Regular spacing and Pleater
Compatible)
Pleater Compatible Spacing
Blue Smocking
Dots
Yellow Smocking
Dots
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Traditional Spacing
Blue Smocking
Dots
Yellow Smocking
Dots
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Pleater Compatible spacing (to match the contemporary
smocking patterns we sell).
Your choice of two colors Yellow for dark fabrics
or Blue for light fabrics.
Smocking Pleaters
The Smocking pleater was invented by Mrs. Read's husband in South Africa
during the late 1940's to assist in his wife's smocking venture. A
very ingenious man. Since then we've had two other innovators, Lord
Stanley (Mr. Read's son-in-law) who invented the first 24 row pleater that
worked and Jerry Konistra of Australia who took the 24row pleater to another
level by changing the traditional metal plates and screws that hold the front
roller bar (and needles) in place and adding side pins as well as enlargening
the handle bars to accomodate thicker pieces of fabric such as corduroy.
If you are interested in buying a pleater here are the pleaters that I sell
and recommend:
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Amanda Jane Super Pleater, a 24 row pleater with a total of 47 half
space rows
This is the new pleater is the one everyone is talking
about. It has 47 half space rows (24 regular and 23 half space
rows). No more hunting for the half spaces on full bodice
smocking.
(Shipping is included in the USA only, other countries please ask cost of
shipping)
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Other Pleaters and sizes we carry
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Amanda Jane
24-row $ 192.50
ppd
The same size as the Super Pleater but without all those extra half
spaces. As you can see from the photograph there are half spaces on
the first half of the pleater going from left to right. Fabric is fed
from behind.
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Amanda Jane
16-row $ 181.50 ppd
Excellent size for when you are working just with doll and infant clothing
or if you want a narrower spacing of your pleats for picture smocking or
a different variation for shibori.
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Quick Price
Comparison
-
Read 32 row pleater - $221.50 ppd
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Super Amanda Jane $210.00 ppd
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Amanda Jane 24-row $186.50 ppd
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Little Amanda Jane 16row $176.50 ppd
If you want to add in a Thread Caddy to your pleater order we have to charge
$12.50 for the shipping, but you can add any other items to your order without
incurring extra shipping charges.
PLEATER THREAD
CADDY
This nifty little box, hand made of pine, has
a space for your pleater to sit up on top. Underneath the lid are dowels
to hold your spools of threads or wound bobbins. In front is a lucite
bar with holes drilled into it to keep your threads neat and tidy and where
you want them at all times. If you order with your pleater the shipping is
$10.50 as these caddys are a bit heavy.
16-row Amanda Jane Thread Caddy
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24-row Thread Caddy
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Books to aid in the learning process
I would really recommend one of the following books to help you learn to
smock on your own:
On English Smocking by Ellen McCarn $12.00
English Smocking by Grace Knott $14.00
A To Z Smocking - AS&E publishers $29.00
(click on name to view book)
either of these books will give you the information you need to teach yourself
how to smock. Shipping for one book is $2.00 or $4.50 for all three.
(These days I'm leaning towards the book by Grace Knott because it has some
very pretty geometric designs included, but the latest book from AS&E
is wonderful. It contains almost everything you need in one book, great
illustrations as well as detailed photographs which help a lot when you are
just beginning.)
I would recommend that you get one of those books and a pre-pleated 16 row
insert ($5.50 see below) to practice your stitches on. Then when you feel
like you are ready and want to do more the next thing to consider is whether
or not smocking is going to become an addiction and you will need a pleater.
If you can see it's not going to be or if you just want to have things pleated
one by one I do offer a pleating service for a minimal charge or I do carry
packages of smocking dots that iron on (yellow for dark fabrics and blue
for light fabrics) and you can pick up the dots to form pleats. The dots
run $3.50 per package.
We have available white inserts (Imperial Broadcloth)
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9 rows ready for smocking (smock 7)
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12 rows ready for smocking (smock 10)
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16 rows ready for smocking (smock 14)
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As for your first project if you have a little girl to smock for I would
recommend a Basic Yoke Dress pattern
as it is an easy style for the beginner smocker (see beginning image of Ellen
McCarn Basic Yoke Dress). The other style called the
Bishop is a bit tricky for beginner smockers,
not difficult but tricky as you have to adjust the tension of your smocking
stitches as you spread out in the circular neckline. I have several
issues of Australian Smocking and Embroidery
which have a pattern in it for babies growing into toddlers. Issue
31 comes to mind immediately. If you have a little boy to smock for then
I would suggest working an insert to be inset into a shirt or sweatshirt.
If you are smocking for yourself there are lots of patterns for adult clothing
that are very elegant. Let me know which you are interested in for
your first project and I will steer you in the right direction.
We do have a ready to smock service if you are interested. Please write
to us with your wants and needs:
mainfairy@smockingbooks.com
Latest Issue of Australian Smocking &
Embroidery
Here is a link to more Australian Smocking & Embroidery
Magazines
For your information each issue of Australian Smocking and Embroidery contains
a wealth of smocking designs, ideas and inspiration. I wholeheartedly recommend
these magazines as sources of inspirations. They are $13.50 each with Priority
Mail shipping throughout the USA at $5.25. If you wanted one of the beginning
books, an insert and a copy of AS&E the shipping is still the same as
I can fit all of these into one priority mail envelope. If you are
outside of the USA then shipping will be charged according to where you live,
let me know and I'll calculate the postage for you.
Would you like to be on our mailing list, place an
order and/or ask a question?
I hope I have answered all of your questions, if you have more or want some
special attention please email me at
mainfairy@smockingbooks.com and
I will send a reply ASAP.
I would also like to point out that there are two styles of English Smocking,
Geometric and Picture Smocking. Geometric is the easiest type of smocking
to do while picture smocking appeals more to children as images are so important
to them. On my front door there are links to all the smocking plate
designers that we carry. Oh and a smocking plate is a design plate
(as in color plate in a book) not an actual dinner plate with images printed
on it.
(To see more on the different types of smocking please go to this page
What is
Smocking? )
Sincerely hoping I've been able to assist you,
Beth-Katherine Kaiman, Main Fairy in attendance
eMail: mainfairy@smockingbooks.com
Some Beginning Smocking Books
In Stock NOW!!!!
A to Z of Smocking by the publishers of AS&E
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New
from the publishers of Australian Smocking & Embroidery, the long awaited
'A to Z Smocking Stitches" $29.00 + postage
Taken from the pages of AS&E this book fulfills the promise of the other
books in the A to Z series with every smocking stitch imaginable in full
color and diagrams. Each stitch is carefully explained and detailed so there
is no confusion as to how to work it. Also included are sections on beginning
smocking, smocking terms, starting and stopping, pleaters and preparation
of fabric for smocking, backsmocking instructions, blocking and shaping bishops
and basic yoke dresses, gosh everything imaginable on the subject of smocking
is covered in this great book.
This is THE book to get to learn how to do bullions on pleats. Also
includes over 1,000 fabulous color step-by-step color photographs on every
subject on smocking imaginable.
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Contents
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Fabrics
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Needles
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Threads
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Starting & Finishing a Thread
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Smocking Terms
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Accent Stitches
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Back Stitch
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Background Smocking
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Backsmocking
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Bargello Smocking
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Beads in Smocking
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Bishop Garments
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Blocking and Shaping
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Bullion Knot
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Buttonholes in Pleats
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Cable Stitch
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Centering Designs
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Chain Stitch
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Colonial Knot
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Colour
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Combinations
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Counterchange Smocking
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Crossover Smocking
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Design Graphs
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Detached Chain
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Diagonal Smocking
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Dolls, Smocking for
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Embroidery on Smocking
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English Smocking
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Fabric Manipulation
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Feather Stitch
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Flowerette
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Fly Stitch
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Freeform Smocking
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French Knot
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Herringbone Stitch
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Honeycomb Stitch
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Horizontal Smocking
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Inserts
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Jigsaw Smocking
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Knits, Smocking on
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Laundering Smocking
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Left Handers
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Mirror Image Rows
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Outline Stitch
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Picture Smocking
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Pistil Stitch
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Plaid Smocking
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Pleaters
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Preparation and pleating
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Prints, smocking on
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Raised Lattice Stitch
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Ribbon Smocking with ribbon weaving
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Round Yoke Garments
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Satin Stitch
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Seed Stitch
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Sheaf Stitch
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Square Yoke Garments
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Star Stitch
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Stem Stitch
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Straight Stitch
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Stripes, Smocking on
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Tartans, Smocking on
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Template Smocking
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Traditional Smocking
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Trailing Vine
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Trellis Stitch
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Unpicking (Reverse Smocking)
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Van Dyke Stitch
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Vertical Ladder Stitch
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Vertical Smocking
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Wave Stitch
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Wheat Stitch
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Zigzag Stitch
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English Smocking by Children's Corner
This book is unique amongst all of our beginning smocking books in that it
contains actual sewing patterns for a Basic Square Yoke Dress (sizes 1-6)
and Armhole guides for a Sundress (sizes 1-8), a smocked baby's bonnet, and
smocked collar. Also included are seven original smocking designs with
variations each for either a square yoke dress or bishop. The smocking
stitches are clearly presented in illustrations as well as written instructions.
Excellent value for your money.
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Geometric Smocking by Juliet Macdonald
Another beauty from South Africa (see Let's Smock
It!), home of the
Read
Pleaters, containing 48 original geometric smocking designs. Each
design has a full color plate and a graph with instructions. Also included
are 8 dresses which cover different smocking situations including a bishop
dress smocked in one contrast color, a floral dress smocked with thicker
thread, smocked inserts, and gingham and tartan smocking. Great
instructions for how to smock along with adapting a commercial pattern for
smocking and creating your own designs with enlarging and reducing designs.
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"How to Smock" - Grace Knott $16.00
A republication and revision of a 1957 classic with 10 updated color
geometric smocking designs created in Grace's tradition by her daughter-in-law.
It shows you how to pleat by dots and how to use a pleater, along with
smocking instructions and collar suggestions. A wonderful book and the geometric
and picture designs included are delightful. The smocking design on
the cover is one of the smocking designs included. (Grace Knott designed
some of the first smocking plates in the 50's. Bold geometrics which sparked
the smocking craze and eventually led to what you see today)
Please click on the link to see the lovely geometric designs of
Grace Knott Smocking Designs.
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"Ellen McCarn On English Smocking" $12.00
This book is wonderful and in my opinion this is the book to get.
One of the most definitive manuals on smocking with clear and concise directions
and drawings. Includes seven design plates and 150 step-by-step illustrations
and photographs. Covers beginning thru advanced geometric smocking. An
excellent guide for teaching yourself smocking as it is like Ellen
is right there looking over your shoulder. Ellen has been
smocking and designing plates for more than 20 years. This
book contains the sum of her experiences. Excellent publication.
To see Ellen's smocking designs please go to this page
Ellen McCarn Smocking Design Plates.
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"Picture Smocking with Ellen McCarn" $12.00
A perfect companion book to the previous edition. This book tells you all
you ever need to know about picture smocking. Comes with a stash of picture
smocked motifs and geometric patterns for creating your own designs. For
more than 20 years Ellen McCarn has been delighting smockers all around the
world with her picture smocking. She shares her tips as well as some
creative processes in this volume.
To see Ellen's smocking designs please go to this page
Ellen McCarn Smocking Design Plates.
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For understanding your pleater I would recommend Sarah Douglas' The Pleater
Manual and A to Z Smocking.
"The Pleater Manual" Sarah Douglas $18.00
(Sub-title: A Comprehensive Guide to the Use of the Smocking Pleater).
This is THE definitive guide to operating a smocking pleater
and working with pleated fabric. Written by an expert in smocking,
Saran Douglas gives you more information than you ever would want to know
about pleating and working with pleated fabric. Covers the basic subjects
and then goes into a comparison of the popular brands of pleaters and advanced
subjects like pleating on the bias and curves. 0Included is a glossary of
terms, pleating directions for all types of fabrics and pleater maintenance
instructions. The layout of the book is set up as lesson plans
on every type of pleating, exotic or regular. She certainly did her
research well and it definitely shows. I recommend this book as a must
have in every smockers library.
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Lattice Smocking by Laura Jenkins Thompson $12.00
If you have ever wondered how to make those pillows from the 50's and
60's this is the book for you. Two different lattice smocking patterns
are included adapted for the following projects Laura's Lattice Dress,
Royal Weskit Smocked Sleeve Jacket, Princess Insert Dress, Channel Jacket
- Canadian Style, Lattice Envelope Evening Bag, Lattice Cummerbund Belt.
I'm dying to try some of this on velvet as well as doing it in
miniature.
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