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October 31, 2001
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Smocking Newsletter - Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright 1997-2004, all rights reserved. Please respect my creativity and hard work and ask permission before you copy something from these newsletters for your non profit goup, I always ask that you quote me correctly and give me credit with a way for people to get back to me. Thank you. IF you wish to quote me in a venture for profit please contact me separately concerning royalties.
Washing Fine Fabrics
Q's & A's about Iron-on Dots, Construction
The Basic Yoke Dress
The traditional smocked basic square yoke dress for young girls has been around in one form or another throughout the 20th century since the 1920's. It seemed during the 1890's the tightly fitted bodice seen on adult clothing was deemed unconfortable for the growing bodies of young girls, a more fuller look was preferred for comfort and ease. Throughout the years for the most part the variations that have been worked in smocking have been either the full bodice smocking or lengthening or shortening the yoke.
Twist on the traditional basic yoke dress (Yoke not Yolk)
I know some of you already know about Love and Stitches Girls Yoke Dresses I #161 but I thought I would discuss it for those who aren't familiar with it.
The traditional smocked basic square yoke dress for young girls has been around in one form or another throughout the 20th century since the 1890's. Until Love and Stitches came up with their dolman sleeve variation the style of the basic yoke dress has been with the smocking on the skirt which is then attached onto the yoke of the dress or smocked inserts were attached to the bodice taking away from the fullness of a smocked skirt front.
During the mid 1980's a variation of a full smocked bodice came on the scene which was embraced whole heartedly by the smocking community who was bored with the old style which has quickly become the norm for the fancy smocked dress featured in weddings and holiday occasions. Bullions, bullions and more bullions are often found on the full smocked bodice, or at least that has been the trend for the past 15 years. Picture smocking is successful at the end of the smocking rather than images on the complete full smocked bodice as IMO the proportions would be off not to mention daunting in the smocking. (My ga'ad it would take forever to smocked a full bodice picture image!!!!!)
The one major complaint that I have heard over these past 15 years on the basic square yoke is that most patterns have the smocking end at the edge of the armhole which can look like it is unfinished. One solution to this problem is to work your smocking all the way across the fabric rather than leaving space for the armhole curve and have your smocking go into the armhole, cutting the armhole curve after the smocking is finished. This looks so much better than having the smocking just stop, especially on older girls. (Little girls can get away with the stopped smocking look due to their size). Cutting the armhole after the smocking is tricky and most people hate doing it. It's not hard, you just have to stay stitch your smocking before cutting out the curve.
Debbie Glenn of Love 'n Stitches came up with an intriguing solution with her dolman sleeve design for the older girl (size 6-10) who likes a bit more fashionable clothing to wear. As you can see by the image the smocking looks like it's an insert, which it is, but is actually a panel which ends at the armhole in a neat and tidy solution. Also the added benefit is that you don't have to go through all of the stress of fitting in sleeves, they are attached to the smocking panel with piping and sewn before the side seams. Very clever Debbie.
The pattern comes in one size Girls yoke Dress 6-10, Toddler and 15" Dolls Bitty Baby Yoke.
NO SET IN SLEEVES!!!! A mini dolman sleeve makes for an interesting new look for the basic yoke dress. The question of where to end the smocked insert is finally solved in this unique design.
LNS#663 Bitty Baby Yoke Dresses 15" Dolls
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