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March 22, 2001
e-Mail: mainfairy@smockingbooks.com
Website: Garden Fairies Smocking & Needlearts Catalog
Smocking Newsletter - Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright 1997-2004, all rights reserved. Please respect my creativity and hard work and ask permission before you copy something from these newsletters for your non profit goup, I always ask that you quote me correctly and give me credit with a way for people to get back to me. Thank you. IF you wish to quote me in a venture for profit please contact me separately concerning royalties.
New Uses for the Pleater
Trouble with pleating bishops
What is meant by "Multiple Needle Technique" in Picture Smocking?
A new reason added to "Why I can't Tat"
What is "#80 Smocking Stripe" on your fabric Listing?
How to change Pleater Needles
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One of the most intriguing uses for a pleater has come to my attention along with an opportunity to free up your creative mind and do something different, sculpture!
In the recent book on dye techniques known as Shibori, Elfreida Moller uses the pleater to pleat her fabric for silk painting. The dyes she uses are non steaming, I've even been reading about how you can set simple Kool Aid "dyes" with vinegar (that's how teenagers dye their hair). You can see an example of what it looks like on my Pleaters page and in our new section of Fabric Design Books.
<< I have done a Bishop collar and am having trouble at the sleeve seams Continue to break needles. <-- Kathy >>
Seams for bishops
This sounds like you might not be trimming your french seams tiny enough. I was taught to trim the first seam down to 1/8" or 1/16", as tiny as you can get it without cutting into the seam. This is encased in the second half of the french seam. The reason for trimming the seam so tiny is to ensure that the seam won't get caught in your pleater causing needles to wend their way out as you turn the handle or break. When you don't trim your seam you end up with four layers of fabric that have to go onto the pleater needle. A bulky seam causes stress on the needles and roller bars, hence needles that break.
Another trick is to rock the seams through the pleater by gently going back and forth in a small motion. I find this trick really helps by clearing the needles of any bunched up fabric before attempting to rock the seam through the pleater. Oh and go slow.
c) <<I'm trying to do a picture smocking, is my first picture somocking. But I don't know what means multiple needle technique. Could you help? Thank you, Damaris>>
Multiple needle refers to having several needles threaded with the different colors needed in the figure. It takes a bit of concentration to do this but it's so much easier and neater than having to tie off each time you change your color.
This topic is covered in A to Z Smocking.
<<My mom's mom was a tatter. She didn't even have to look. She could talk and tat and tat and talk endlessly after the chores were done. Her hands were rough and calloused from working on the farm during the depression. Gramma Pearl's fingers were crooked and bent with age. But, she could tat the most beautiful, delicate hanky and collar edges by the dim light of days gone by at the end of her busy day.
Today, I have bright lights, uncalloused hands and straight fingers. I'm only 53. So, maybe, as a tribute to Gramma Pearl, I can't tat because I'm not quite old and gnarled enough yet. In her precious memory I share these thoughts. Her oldest, loving granddaughter, Phyllis>>
Thanks for the story Phyllis, I appreciate hearing from my readers about tatting. I was also amused when my friend Vivian came over with books and shuttles in hand ready to teach me to tat. As I looked at her over my glasses with one eyebrow raised, I said "Indeed. Haven't you read my section on the Ten Reasons Why I can't Tat?". She gave a giggle and needless to say that lesson was over REAL fast.
<<What is a smocking stripe #80? Is it and insert that can be sewn on the bodice of the dress? Lydia>>
Smocking stripe is fabric with 1/4" stripes, why it's called that I have no idea - just a whim of the manufacturer.
<< I'd love to know how to change a needle, however the pleater didn't come with instructions of how to perform this process. For now I'd like to move one of the needles which I don't often use, and put it in that slot! Any ideas, tips, reference sites or pearls of wisdom of how to change a needle would be greatly appreciated! >>
Changing a needle on a pleater that is not an Amanda Jane is simple (the Amanda Jane pleaters all have two side pins that you pull out instead of screws. Place your pleater on to a piece of white cloth just in case the needles go flying. Makes it soo much easier to find those darn needles, trust me. Next unscrew the two screws on the front of your pleater which are holding the roller bar in place and put them and the two holding plates aside. Carefully lift up the front roller bar, try to do this without pulling out the needles that are in place, and set that aside. As you can see the needles are seated in between the top, middle and bottom rollers. The curve of the needle fits right into the groove with the point of the needle nestled in the back, eye of the needle is where you thread the needle. You will know if you have the needles seated properly as they will settle in without much effort. Push all the needles back into position and replace the front roller bar and screw in the screws.
Yes, you can use only the number of needles you are going to be smocking.
Vol. 4 Issue 3
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