May 8, 1997
e-Mail: smockingstore@att.net
Website: Garden Fairies Smocking & Needlearts Catalog
Smocking Newsletter - Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright 1997-2007, all rights reserved. Please respect my creativity and hard work and ask permission before you copy something from these newsletters for your non profit goup, I always ask that you quote me correctly and give me credit with a way for people to get back to me. Thank you. IF you wish to quote me in a venture for profit please contact me separately concerning royalties
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In This Issue:
From our Readers
Smocking History
Beginner's Corner
Pattern Review
Smocking Stitches
From Our Readers:
"I found my pattern by Folkwear, "Russian Settlers' Dress." THE WORD YOU HAD TROUBLE SPELLING = "IGOLOCHKOY". I thought that I'd help you out with that word. I just finished chatting with Jean<MURPHEZZY>, and she agreed that you would like the proper spelling of that Russian term!
"I am good at sewing, crafting, smocking, etc. I have a LARGE collection of books and patterns. For the most part, if I read instructions in a book, I can teach myself. That's how learned heirloom sewing. The only thing that I have tried and can't master is tatting; my maternal grandmother tried to teach me way back when I was a teen, but I just couldn't get the hang of it. I inherited her shuttle when she passed on almost 3 years ago this month; she would have been 92 in August.
"Also, I worked at Jo-Ann Fabrics for 2 years. The main reason that I quit was because of a severe allergic reaction to the formaldehyde in the fabrics--my hands became severely inflamed, itchy, and cracked and bled; water made my hands burn. It also entered my system; I seemed to catch anything and everything that came around. The other reason that I quit was because of harassment - long story; I just had had enough! Don't apologize to me or I'll have to say, "mea culpa, mea culpa!"
Have a good day! Ellen"
Ellen I hope you don't mind that I put your letter(s) in the newsletter but I felt what you had to say was important. Formaldehyde is a very nasty chemical that many manufacturers use. I try my best to get fabrics that don't have it but washing right away is very essential to getting rid of the smell and the chemical reactions. I have noticed that certain fabrics have it more than others. I have no idea why. The major issue here is NEVER IRON your fabric until it's washed. (The fumes will get to you, eventually as in Ellen's story.)
I appreciate the proper spelling, my spell checker had NO IDEA how to spell that one. I am enclosing my "TEN REASON WHY I CAN'T TAT" a little bit down. As y'all may notice (see this California Girl is learning southern talk) it's not quite ten reasons so I'm hoping that you may have some suggestions for the list. Beth-Katherine
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"Have you seen the video called "The Wonderful World of Smocking" by Leisa Pownall published by Madeira (the thread company). If you don't mind the Australian accent :-) I think the video is excellent. It is A$35 which would be about US$24 and it is available from Madeira Australia, 25 Izett Street, Prahan Vic. 3181, Australia. Ph. 61 3 9529 4400. Fax. 61 3 9525 1172. Even as an experienced smocker I found the instructions and closeups of the work really good. For a beginner I would certainly recommend it as more helpful than a book as you can actually see the stitches being done.
Thanks to Meg for her tips on the Mickey Mouse plate - I'll pass them onto my friend. Phillipa"
I will look into that video. Sounds great, unfortunately the 'thread' to connect to Maderia's web-site is broken so I will have to call the company and ask if it's available in the US.
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From NBL THMBL@aol.com"Dear Beth, I would love the back issues too. I am new to computers and finding all this dialog on smocking and heirloom sewing is like letting me lose in a candy store. Jackie" - I thought your description so cute I had to include it in the newsletter - Beth
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"Beth, I read the info in one of the newsletters about attaching the cording to the yoke and the attaching the smocked piece by stitching in the ditch. I must say I tried it and it is a wonderful improvement to my old style of doing it. I passed it on to a friend who also smocks. Keep up the good work. It is greatly appreciated. Edie T" - JEchamp@aol.com
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"From SEWiSEW@aol.com: I will be traveling to New Orleans this July. Does anyone on your mailing list know of any wonderful fabric/quilting/smocking supplies stores in the area? Thanks in advance. Happy smocking! Ruth" Ok ladies any marvelous places in New Orleans for Ruth to go to?
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1) It's too noisy (what with the shuttle falling on the floor all the time - Hey I saw Rita do it and she was so fast)
2) I get wet all the time (what with chucking the shuttle in the Bay all the time (thanks to Katie Kliot from Lacis).
3) Can't pry it out of the wall. (Thanks to Janice Ferguson for that one)
4) All the good texts are in a foreign language, and I only read in English.
5) Even tried needle tatting, was good at it but finally couldn't get it off of the needle.
6) I found that my eyes crossed instead of the thread.
(help I need some other reasons)
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The Smock
From Diana Keays - "The Book of Smocking" pg. 18 "At the end of the nineteenth century the decorated smock had declined in popularity as a practical garment for countrymen". Countrymen usually had two or three smocks, one to work in and one to 'wear to meetings' and to fairs but the mechanization of farm life brought a need of a closer fitting, safer garment to wear to work. The speed in which these machines moved were at first entrancing to the workers (and still is - witness the crowds of men watching machines at work at building sites) but quickly brought about the demise of their way of life through the end of wearing of the smock due to safety factors. The smock was primarily a man's utility garment in country life worn to protect his underclothing and himself from the wet and cold winds of the English countryside, but the new fast moving farm machines forced men to stop wearing the smock as it's billowing nature made it a likely target to get pulled into the fast moving machine parts, so the smock became strictly a at home garment or worn for non-mechanized chores. This brought embroidery/smocking to the status of leisure arts and the tradition of smocking quickly found other avenues of wearers: women and children.
The smock of the late 19th century has been the basis of inspiration for many of the styles of today's contemporary smocking designers - although the main impulse is from the styles of the 40's and 50's we can trace the inspiration from the earlier period. The round smock gave us the bishop dress (which of course also owes it's existence to the basic chemise or bishops' gown), the coat smock our button-down-front smocked dresses and the basic yoke dress from the smock-frock. In contemporary times we have the Aesthetic Dress movement of the late 19th century which strove to liberate women from the iron-maiden - the corset. Liberty of London was the primary promoted of smocked clothing for women and children. Liberty gowns for women, bishop style, were rich in smocking at the neckline and the waist. Sometimes you would see the sleeves of garments or waistlines smocked in honeycomb stitch. Women like the close fitting look of the stitches around the waist, honeycomb smocking really brought in the waist more than other stitch. (Mind you this is before bias cut and clingy fabrics of the 1930's.) Attention to detail was a very Victorian thing (almost compulsive if you really think about it). Smocked little girls' clothing also became the rage. In looking back we can see how embroidery on pleats have entranced women since that time period.
BEGINNER'S CORNER - a letter from one of our readers:
Adusting the length of sleeves for a pattern
"Thank you so much for the wonderful newsletters you sent me. I would like to find out if you have a pattern. The dress that I am making for my daughter's First Communion is one she chose from issue No. 22 Spring 1992 of Australian Smocking and Embroidery on page 7-9. The magazine suggested Smocking Horse Basic Square Yoke for the "lovely sleeves". The dress has medium length sleeves. I do have the Chery Williams pattern but as I am not very good at dressmaking I was unsure how to make adjustments for a longer sleeve length as the sleeves in the Chery Williams pattern are not as long. If you could assist me I would be very grateful. Thank you, Julie-Anne"
Dear Julie-Anne
I would be happy to sell you another pattern but if you have already the Chery Williams pattern adjusting the sleeves is very easy.
There are two things to realize about adjusting sleeve length on a girl's pattern. 1) There is not sleeve dart to worry about. There is enough puffiness in the sleeve cap that takes out that dart - which only exists in tight fitting sleeves. If the sleeve pattern looks like it's a basic rectangle with a curves cap and armholes then all you have to do is add to the bottom of the sleeve the amount of fabric you want for your longer sleeve. If you notice that the side seams are angled in any way towards the cuff then you will have to cut and tape your pattern piece. First of all mark a 2" vertical line from the bottom of the pattern piece, then come up about 1" from the bottom and draw a horizontal line from edge to edge, cut the piece apart. You now have your sleeve top and sleeve bottom. Take a piece of paper 3" longer than you want your sleeve to be and draw a vertical line straight down the middle. Tape the top of the sleeve to top of the paper matching the vertical lines and then tape the bottom piece that you have cut off the length of the sleeve you want - matching vertical lines. Re-draw the side seams.
This is one of the easiest adjustments to do since you don't at all have to play with the armhole nor sleeve cap. - Beth-Katherine
Pansy - I wanted to describe to you another nightgown pattern I have found. It's by A Garden of Smocking Designs and is sized for Adults S, M, L $10.00. Almost identical to the Pink Kitten Sweet Dreams pattern except this one has two sleeve variations, long sleeves and sleeveless. (Of course you can make the sleeves any length you desire - it's very easy once you understand how to do it.) The round yoke starts about 2" below the neck edge and continues over the shoulders. The armholes are cut out of the front and backs with the smocking done semi circular style to allow for more room in the chest.
Ladies Nightie - Grace Knott. Misses: 8-18 $5.00. Here is another nightgown pattern with two styles. The first is smocked in the front and back semi-bishop style, bias on the front & back, tied at the shoulders with string-ties. The second style shoulder straps and is straight across the chest.
Nina - Smickety Smocks $13.00. Misses S, M, L. This pattern is a lovely combination of smocking and heirloom sewing. The yoke is made up of lace and insertions with a button placket lined in lace edging. You may be familiar with it from the book Stunning Stitches by Primrose Sully. The smocking comes down from the yoke around the front and the back. (If you would like this pattern I suggest that you get it quickly as the designer passed away last year and once stock is depleted there will be no reprints.) The designer, Madeline Bird also wrote a lovely book called Smocking with Ribbon (which we still have copies of for sale).
Virginia's Nursing Gown - Smocked Togs Misses: 6-16 $6.00. Here is another gown that I forgot. It has a lovely scalloped bodice with wing sleeves. The smocking is in front in two panels from the high bodice. The nursing panels are hidden under the smocking. Of course you can make it without the openings for nursing.
And these goodies from Smocking Unlimited:
SU#210 Ladies Ruffled Nightgown $9.00 Misses: 6-20. Three styles to choose from, Straight yoke with long sleeves and high neckline, sleeveless with straps from around the armhole and a scoop neck version with long sleeves.
SU# 217 Nightgown and Slippers $9.00 Misses: 6-20. Raglan style with smocking in front bell short sleeves. Includes smocked slippers (the complete ensemble).
SU#224 Ladies Robe and Gown $9.00 Misses 6-20. Bell sleeves, smocking on front shoulders with a plain central panel where the placket goes. Also included is a lovely robe with long sleeves.
SU#207 Child's Robe & Gown $9.00 Girls: 2-12. Raglan sleeves, smocked panel in front. Two styles of sleeves, wing and long sleeves
SU#245 Smocked Sleepshirt $9.00 Misses 6-20. A full smocked bodice with beading and ribbons. Long sleeves
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Here's a fun web site for you:
The Websmockers, the cyber SAGA connection. http://www.texoma.net/~reddish/
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"Owl flew past a day or two ago and noticed me. He didn't say anything, mind you, but he knew it was me. Very friendly of him, I thought. Encouraging."
-- Eeyore
"It's snowing still. AND freezing. However we haven't had an earthquake lately." -- Eeyore