SMOCKING NEWSLETTER VOL.1 ISSUE 17
November 19, 1997
e-Mail: mainfairy@smockingbooks.com
Website: Garden Fairies Smocking & Needlearts Catalog
Smocking Newsletter - Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright 1997-2004, all rights reserved. Please respect my creativity and hard work and ask permission before you copy something from these newsletters for your non profit goup, I always ask that you quote me correctly and give me credit with a way for people to get back to me. Thank you. IF you wish to quote me in a venture for profit please contact me separately concerning royalties
.
From Our Readers
Beginner's Corner
Smocking History
"Looking for a Smocking Friend in Germany: My husband is in the Army and we are in Wurzburg, Germany for another 5 months. I would love to see a personals section for finding smocking friends. The post exchange has limited fabric and tacky cheap clothes so I could use friends in the know. nielson@hrb.de"
Is there anyone on the list from Germany who would like to write to the lady above? She didn't give her first name but she is a new subscriber to the newsletter and is searching for a smocking pal or two who knows Germany.
"Dear Beth: ...have you ever pleated acetate moire, decorator weight, before? I did it this weekend and hated it...broke 5 needles...and these were new sharp needles...and it left needle marks in the fabric. What am I doing wrong? The customer is understanding though, she left a dress to go by and it had some obvious needle marks in it too! Is this just the "nature of the beast"? Patty"
Yuck. I hate pleating that stuff. "Crunch, crunch, crunch, crack." Try sending wax paper through your pleater first, then get a strawberry emery and sharpen your needles. These two tricks might work. Pleat slowly and make sure you "milk" the fabric off of the needles every three or four turns, this will take some stress off of the needles. Now as far as the holes, well try steaming them away - but make sure you are wearing a gas mask for the formaldehyde (sp.) fumes, you get my drift. Those can really make you sick and decorator fabrics are always loaded with it. I had a lady come into my shop who worked at the local Calico Corners, they mostly carry decorator fabrics, and who told me that she developed an eye infection from all of the formaldehyde in the fabrics that she had to handle. Her doctor told her to get another job or else make sure that she washed her hands frequently and if she was handling (ie moving bolts and re-bolting fabric) the fabrics more than usual to wear a face mask. Her employers didn't appreciate that one but if you have a sensitivity to the chemical it's important to protect yourself. Yuck.
Regarding my writing on the website on Pleaters:
"If you want to pleat more than 16 rows and like a wider spacing between your rows then the 24-row pleater is your best bet. (There is about 1/16th of an inch difference between the needle spacing of the 16 and the 24-row pleaters, so after 16-rows a piece pleated by a 24-row pleater is 1" longer than a piece pleated by a 24-row pleater.) If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask, we are here to help."
Did you mean to say if the piece is pleater by a 24 row pleater it would be 1 inch longer than if pleater by a 16 row pleater? Can you really tell that the rows are wider? Do you have to make allowances on your patterns? I am soooo confused. Also, what's the difference between regular needles and shorties and when would you use shorties? Did you not have a newsletter this week because of your moving sale? I already miss it. Thanks for your help, Geri
Now you will have to realize that I'm a bit dyslexic and I think we are misunderstanding the width difference. I was talking about the spacing between the vertical rows. If for example you are pleating a rectangle for a child's dress to smock, as you have finished the pleating the "rows" (what the pleating threads are now called) are horizontal whereas the pleats are vertical - right? The width of the rectangle does not change unless you add more fabric.
What I was referring to was the spacing of the rows. On a 24 row pleater the needles are spaced 1/16th of an inch wider than that of a 16row pleater. So if you were to pleat 16 rows with both sizes of pleaters and compare the two rectangles side by side you would find that the last row of the piece pleated by the 24row pleater is one inch longer than that of the piece pleated by the 16row pleater. Understand?
Now on to the needles - some people like the shortie needles because the fabric tends to fall off of them without you having to milk the fabric off of the needles. This really depends on the fabric weight and it's fiber content, but a very soft fabric will just fall off. It's a matter of preference really. Beth-katherine Pleaters and Notions
SMOCKING HISTORY
I have been giving smocking for adults a lot of attention this past week and wanted to share with you some ideas that have been floating around as well as some considerations for you to ponder. In the past couple of issues we have discussed how smocking has primarily evolved into garments for children with the main emphasis these days on picture smocking and embellished smocking. Even today every magazine you pick up that is dedicated to smocking shows mostly children's clothing. This evolution I am talking about is the image that most people have of smocking as tightly embroidered pleats, a lot of fabric gathered up.
Adding Inserts: It is possible for women to incorporate smocking into garments without too much fuss or bother or excess fabric by the addition of pleated inserts placed into a garment of your choice. This may or may not work depending on your sense of taste or style or figure - but to add an insert to a vest or jacket front or on the back, or as a border along the hemline to a vest or jacket would work. Placing it across our chest or bust line probably would only work for the petite or small chested woman but not the full-figured woman because it's placement would attract too much attention to that area and quite frankly for most of us it would look tacky, and that is something we all want to avoid. The last thing we want is a garment we spent hours on ending up looking like a girl's outfit made to fit MOM, it just doesn't work. So think the placement of your insert through carefully.
Addition to an existing pattern: Another way to add smocking to a garment is to start with a yoked garment, whether it be a blouse or dress. Just calculate the amount of the gathering that is already allowed and see if there is enough there for pleating and smocking. We already discussed last week or so about finding out the ratio of pleats to the number of inches of fabric but I'll go over it again. Take a scrap piece of fabric 3" long and run it through your pleater. Pull up the gathers tightly and measure how many pleats are within an inch, this should be the whole piece of fabric. If not then count how many pleats to an inch, mark the beginning of the measurement and the end of the measurement and spread out the pleats and measure how many inches that equals. Now you have to be aware that there is the variable of fabric weight in this measurement to consider. A batiste will pleat up more tightly than a broadcloth. So if you are just doing this experiment to calculate for a garment make sure you use a scrap of the fabric that you are making into a garment.
Smocked Yoke or Bodice: Another thought was to move away from the tightly pleated idea of smocking. Many of the smocking stitches lend themselves nicely to being stretched out and often create neat puffing effects within their patterns. This is the area known as textured smocking. Find a pattern that has a yoke you could smocked or one with a bodice.
There are very few designers who understand the adult figure. Contessa Patterns is one of them, Mauve Designs is another. Another area where you will find adult smocking patterns in occasionally in the pages of Australian Smocking & Embroidery Magazine.
At the Friday Night Smocking Chat on AOL one of the things we discussed on Adult Smocking was the importance of knowing your figure type before you smock for yourself. Here is a snippet of ideas that were tossed out for adult smocking:
GarFairies : any suggestions? Smockingrm : Do you want the insert across the entire bodice? GarFairies : I think that would look alright on small chested women but the full figured gal, non Smockingrm : How about an empire waist yoke with the insert below the bustline? GarFairies : same as above SewingB : How about a dropped waist rounded in the middle? Dabbler49 : either the breast will cover it or the spare tire will pouch it. GarFairies : as long as you added enough fabric on the insert so that it went from side seam to side seam Smockingrm : Albe Creations had a pattern for a blouse, dress or gown with a v-neck at center front. GarFairies : Ok, now with adult smocking you have to take into consideration your figure Smockingrm : This is a 70's style. With smocking at the shoulders. M45B59 : Did that once with maternity tops GarFairies : If you are full figured (a polite phrase, non?) I really don't think having the smocking pointing to the full area is tasteful. SewingB : At least they're saying we still have a figure! GarFairies : so I think an insert anywhere near the pouch or bustline is out GarFairies : unless you add it to a vest or jacket Smockingrm : OK, Beth. Dabbler49 : no drop waist smocking either!! GarFairies : Barbara not all of us are lucky enough to have "figures" any more SewingB : There was a really cute vest with smocking panels a few years ago in SB Child version, but Smockingrm : I like the one Mauve pattern that has smocked inserts at the shoulders and cuffs. GarFairies : those of you who do can wear just about anything TuxMom : Haven't done smocking since my kids were little SewingB : always thought it would translate GarFairies : yes that is a nice pattern Smockingrm : I was thinking of that vest. GarFairies : the new AS&E utilizes that same idea in issue #40. There is a set of pjs with smocked inserts Dabbler49 : tell more Smockingrm : How about smocked inserts vertically on a sleeve? GarFairies : there is a vest by Lilies of the Field which has the smocking as an insert at the hem GarFairies : yes that would be good for full figured gals GarFairies : another idea is to smock a yoke GarFairies : and as an insert GarFairies : I mean as a complete bodice Smockingrm : Full bodice smocking? GarFairies : yes but only smock the yoke GarFairies : sort of the cowgirl look Smockingrm : Similar to the Smocking Unlimited dress pattern? GarFairies : with that yoke you could play around with the pouching of not smocking some rows with trellis diamonds Smockingrm : Below the yoke line the dress is box pleated. GarFairies : yes that's a nice look Smockingrm : That should work for a full figure. GarFairies : it's a bit of country or relaxed, not formal but it depends on the fabric Smockingrm : It could be formal with the right fabric and beads. GarFairies : with the full figure you want to stay away from a lot of bunched up fabric that has no shape Smockingrm : And the long sleeves could be smocked at the wrist. GarFairies : this is one of my main complaints of smocked skirts GarFairies : yes that's another good idea Smockingrm : You won't see a smocked skirt on me. Smockingrm : Or the long sleeve could have a smocked cuff insert. GarFairies : or panels GarFairies : I have thought about making a gored skirt and pleating it and smocking it to see if it would look Smockingrm : I like this style, Beth. Would work for my figure.
SMOCKING STITCHES: Stitches in depth - Outline Stitch
This is the beginning of our smocking lessons with graphics. To view this section please go to: http://members.aol.com/gabandgo/stitches.html. We will be building up this portion of our website as the weeks progress.
A smocked baby's bonnet is a good beginner's project as it is quick and easy to sew (no real sewing skills required here just the ability to sew a straight seam). There are a couple of adorable patterns available "Mother's Pride" by LBJ and the bonnets included in Chery Williams "Baby Bishop & Bonnet" and Pat Garretson's Bishop (contains several variations including two lacy numbers).
Here are the instructions for a simple bonnet to make up. No pattern necessary as you are working with a rectangle. Cut or tear a piece of fabric 10" x 22 1/2" and pleat 6 rows 1 1/2" away from the edge (to create a ruffle).
One of the most difficult pieces of information (the one flaw in the Pat Garretson's Bishop pattern) that I found out the hard way to get a hold of is how wide do you tie off your bonnet once you are finished I looked in several sources and was amazed at the divergent answers to a bonnet tie off. Grace Knott's Bonnet Pattern suggested 8 1/2" for a year old and when I asked in chat they agreed with me that it was too small and Donna Lee just happened to have the information written down from a class she had taken.
DLWrules : AM GOING TO TYPE THESE IN CAPS TO MAKE IT EASY TO LOCATE AND COPY DLWrules : USE 45 IN WIDE STRIPS OF FABRIC DLWrules : FOR NEWBORN SIZE, STRIP IS 7 1/2 IN LONG - TIE OFF TO 10 1/2 IN DLWrules : 6 M0S. - 8 IN LONG TIED TO 11 INCHES WIDE DLWrules : 12 MOS. - 8 1/2 IN LONG TIED OFF TO 11 1/2 INCHES DLWrules : 18 MOS - 9 INCHES LONG TIED TO 12 INCHED WIDE DLWrules : 2 T - 9 1/2 INCHES LONG TIED TO 12 1/2 INCHES DLWrules : FOR ALL BONNETS, PLEAT 7 ROWS 3/4 INCH FROM EDGE DLWrules : done Smockingrm: thanks DLWrules : you are most welcome! Smockingrm: This one bonnet is supposed to be sewn with rows of lace and netting, DLWrules : feels good to contribute something! Smockingrm: so I guess I should make it about 6-12 mos size SewingB: Does that include a hem allowance for the ribbon tie in back or what? GarFairies: where is this from Donna Lee Smockingrm: That way the photographer can use it for lots of babies. DLWrules : got this info from the lady who taught me to smock. GarFairies: I'll publish it, thanks DLWrules : we use a very small seam allowance in back and gather with ribbon Smockingrm: What about those Anne Geddes bonnets--the Martha Washington style? Smockingrm: That's the other bonnet I have to make. GarFairies: The mob cap style bonnet is in Grace Knott's Bonnet book and also I saw it in issue 36 of AS&E. Smockingrm: Thanks
* * *
"If you can't get rid of them ugly old skeletons in your closet, at least teach 'em how to dance funny." Rev. Billy C. Wirtz
"When your house has quite disappeared, you mustn't complain. You still have all that snow to do with what you like." -- Eeyore