March 15, 1997
e-Mail: smockingstore@att.net
Website: Garden Fairies Smocking & Needlearts Catalog
Smocking Newsletter - Beth-Katherine Kaiman, copyright 1997-2007, all rights reserved. Please respect my creativity and hard work and ask permission before you copy something from these newsletters for your non profit goup, I always ask that you quote me correctly and give me credit with a way for people to get back to me. Thank you. IF you wish to quote me in a venture for profit please contact me separately concerning royalties.
In This Issue:
Topics for Discussion
Pricing of Smocked Garments for Sale
Attaching a Bias Strip to the Neckline
Backsmocking
Rope Stitch
Smocking Herstory
Part One, Beginning of History
Our first topic is Pricing of Smocked Garments for Sale.
Beginner's Corner
SaharSmith : you lay the folded edge of the bias neck band on top of the first row and pin it in place, then you stitch the herringbone at the very edge between the fold and the pleats, understand GarFairies : so the bias band isn't attached yet to the neckline? SaharSmith : right, you do it with the stitch GarFairies : so it isn't stitched onto the back of the neckline? SaharSmith : no, its on the front GarFairies : No I meant machine stitching. Usually I attach the bias band matching right sides together GarFairies : and machine stitch, then I turn the bias to the back and whip into place SaharSmith : oh, your bias is folded with the right side up GarFairies : Sahar do you machine the bias strip first onto the back of the neckline SaharSmith : no GarFairies : Ok so you pin the bias onto the neckline front with the bottom folded under then you work the herringbone stitch onto the front SaharSmith : you got it GarFairies : now what about the back? SaharSmith : pull the band over and hand stitch GarFairies : Does this hold the neckline really tight through all those washings? SaharSmith : I don't know. GarFairies : Hmmmmm, Sahar what I would do is to machine the bias to the back and turn it over and then do that lovely stitch SaharSmith : what a smart idea!
* * *
Smocking Stitches
Here is the pattern which started it all. Two traditional patterns are included in this pattern, the Round Smock which is mid-calf length and slips over the head and the Smock Frock with a button-front opening. Also included are instructions and designs for smocking and traditional embroidery designs. Go wild for yourself and smock your favorite picture smocking designs for yourself and wear it at home or where ever you won't be censored (Mine is smocked with MJT's Morgan's Magic Dragons). Or make it for gardening or a garden party with some of your closest friends.
What we know of as Smocks or Smock Frock from the 1880's they evolved from the basic chemise garment that women and men wore during the middle ages as their undergarment or sleeping garment. The basic shapes of rectangles were easy to sew together without too much fuss. (The 'fussing' was on the outside embroidery.) Coverings for outdoor wear and work were essential to protect clothing (a trip to the mall to buy clothes just didn't exist) which were time consuming to replace. Before the Industrial Revolution of the mid 19th century in order to have clothes to wear one had to grow the flax or hemp for linen or raise sheep for their wool. The fibers had to be processed, linen or hemp was harvested and dried, pounded, spun into thread and then woven into cloth by hand. Then this cloth , usually bought or bartered at market, was made into garments. Garments were simple and functional or they were gaily embroidered and embellished with ribbons for special occasions like weddings and fairs. There were three basic styles of the Smock Frock, open neckline, buttoned down the front and the round smock.
"From the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century a 'smock' was the name given to a woman's undergarment worn next to the skin and made of linen. Confusingly, this garment then became known as a 'shift' and later the French term 'chemise' seemed more appropriate for these beautifully embroidered items of underwear. "The cut of the chemise was very similar to the early protective garb of the land worker and consisted simply of two rectangles joined together with spaces for head and arms. Since this was clothing at its most basic, it was usual for smock-type garments to be found in every period and country and worn by all social groups as outer clothing or underclothing. "The land worker's protective smock was worn throughout western Europe; it varied in decorative detail from country to country, but the cut and style bore a close resemblance to what in England became known as the smock-frock. In Holland, it was a wit-kiel, meaning white smock, and the Italians wore a gabbanella, a poor man's frock, in the sixteenth century. In Scandinavia the skyla was the name for a similar garment, and the German kittel was made of dark coarse linen. Many modern versions of these peasant garments are still worn in blouse and shirt form - the similarity of cut is easily recognizable - the most familiar of all is the shirt of the Hungarian folk costume which for centuries has combined the basic elements of smock cut with ornate decoration and smocking."
"From the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century a 'smock' was the name given to a woman's undergarment worn next to the skin and made of linen. Confusingly, this garment then became known as a 'shift' and later the French term 'chemise' seemed more appropriate for these beautifully embroidered items of underwear.
"The cut of the chemise was very similar to the early protective garb of the land worker and consisted simply of two rectangles joined together with spaces for head and arms. Since this was clothing at its most basic, it was usual for smock-type garments to be found in every period and country and worn by all social groups as outer clothing or underclothing.
"The land worker's protective smock was worn throughout western Europe; it varied in decorative detail from country to country, but the cut and style bore a close resemblance to what in England became known as the smock-frock. In Holland, it was a wit-kiel, meaning white smock, and the Italians wore a gabbanella, a poor man's frock, in the sixteenth century. In Scandinavia the skyla was the name for a similar garment, and the German kittel was made of dark coarse linen. Many modern versions of these peasant garments are still worn in blouse and shirt form - the similarity of cut is easily recognizable - the most familiar of all is the shirt of the Hungarian folk costume which for centuries has combined the basic elements of smock cut with ornate decoration and smocking."
Raglan sleeves, smocked in the round.
The instruction booklet included has over 140 illustrations and complete instructions for Pleating, 7 Sleeve Variations, Scalloped Hem, Heirloom Machine Sewing techniques and an adjustable geometric smocking design graph "Marie". Also includes instructions for making an insert collar out of contrast fabric. Ellen's instructions are the best, every step is detailed and illustrated in a clear and concise manner that is to be expected by a master smocking designer.
Basic Square Yoke Dress by Ellen McCarn
Sleeves are set into a yoke, smocking is on the skirt.
This pattern has variations for smocked short sleeves, long sleeves, a jumper variation, Angel sleeves, angel sleeve with overlay and collar overlay. Two separate sizes, 3mo to 4 years and 5 years to 14 years. Instruction booklet included has over 150 step-by-step illustrations and instructions for Pleating, 10 Sleeve Variations, 8 Collar Variations, Scalloped hem, Skirt Variations and heirloom Machine Sewing techniques. The adjustable geometric smocking design graph "Christy", pictured on the front cover, is included.
Instruction booklet included has over 150 step-by-step illustrations and instructions for Pleating, 10 Sleeve Variations, 8 Collar Variations, Scalloped hem, Skirt Variations and heirloom Machine Sewing techniques. The adjustable geometric smocking design graph "Christy", pictured on the front cover, is included.
My sense is that what we call embroidery evolved from a way to hold two pieces of cloth together to a way of expressing the creative spirit. Knowing how the feminine mind works it is easy to assume that the boredom of doing the same stitch over and over again lead to the creation of different stitches which gradually came to be known as embroidery. This same process lead to the development of clothing away from wrapped garments to simple squares and rectangles put together, and when some brilliant mind reasoned that by gathering up fabric at the neckline or waistline it would give more room at the hemline and knowing the feminine minds desire to invent or create something beautiful smocking was born. Necessity they say, is the mother of invention. Smocking primarily evolved as a way to add warmth at the chest and wrists because mostly in England the weather was cold and/or wet as well as a way to add volume to the garment for warmth and ease of walking.
Once the creation of pleats or gathered fabric was solved then the problem of holding down those pleats arose and it's easy to see that the evolution of smocking went hand in hand with the evolution of what we call crewel embroidery. The stitches are identical: the running stitch (to make the pleats), the outline, stem, cable, feather and sometimes chain stitch are both found in smocking and crewel work. Something had to be used to hold the pleats in place. Originally I believe the pleats were mashed down, held down by embroidery on top of them, but later the desire to hold the pleats upright lead to the invention of what we know as smocking, grabbing only one third of the pleat with your needle and floss to make it stand upright.
Interesting Web Sites:
SAGA (Smocking Arts Guild of America) address
I hope that you have enjoyed this first edition of the Smocking Newsletter, please send your comments and questions to smockingstore@att.net.
"When your tail is missing, remember that you have every right to mope." -- Eeyore
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